Iće i piće

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Broj 34 Travanj 2013.

Posjetili smo Portugal. Zimi u području rijeke Douro budu prosječno tek dva kišna dana. A mi smo početkom ožujka iskusili dvostruki zimski prosjek na svom četverodnevnom putovanju! No, dok bismo u nekoj drugoj zemlji možda i očajavali, zatvoreni prostori vinskih podruma, hotela i restorana nudili su dovoljno sadržaja da zanemarimo dosadnu kišu. U Portugalu je prošle godine zatvoreno oko 7000 restorana! Recesija se kao zaraza raširila Europom ne štedeći nikoga. Upravo zato dajemo ovaj primjer mukotrpna rada zasnovana na sjajnoj tradiciji i prošlosti, ali u stalnoj potrazi za novim proizvodima i tržištima – mnogo možemo naučiti od njih.

U rubrici Odiseja, u ovom broju preimenovanoj u Hrvatska kakva bi mogla biti, donosimo vam priču iz Barbata (otok Pag) u kojoj ćete vidjeti koliko lipih stvari oko sebe zanemarujemo. Što nas je ponukalo da ispričamo ovu izmišljenu priču zasnovanu na istinitim činjenicama? Što su Barbati i zašto Barbati? Što je tako važno u tih linearnih deset kilometara koji spajaju naselja koja se zovu Barbati (Kustići, Zubovići i Metajna) na zapadnom kraju paške uvale? Zašto je to tipičan jadranski gastronomski dekakilometar? Razgovor Željka Zubovića i Damira u jednoj od brojnih gastronomskih zgoda o potencijalu našega Jadrana (Hrvatske) odveo nas je i u ovu gastronomsku odiseju.

Nastavljamo s intervjuima s ponajboljim svjetskim kuharima. Ovaj put to je Massimo Bottura, chef restorana Osteria Francescana (peti na svjetskoj rang-listi San Pellegrino 2012 i tri Michelinove zvjezdice). Iako je Bottura prvi restoran otvorio još 1987, tek je Osteria Francescana postala njegov paradni poligon, mjesto na kojemu će i izgraditi svoj mit jedinstvenoga svjetskog chefa. Avangardni pristup predstavio ga je ne samo kao chefa nego i kao umjetnika (jednako ga cijene i gurmani i ljubitelji umjetnosti). Taj chef renesansne provenijencije čovjek je jedinstvene umjetničke i filozofske ekspresije, koji nadahnuće crpe iz likovne umjetnosti, glazbe (veliki je ljubitelj jazz-pijanista), povijesti, poezije te zaljubljenik u svoj posao, na koji se svakodnevno baca sa strašću beskompromisna perfekcionista.

Paris Cookbook Fair, koji kulminira dodjelom Gourmandovih nagrada, održan je 22–24. veljače u Carrouselu du Louvre. Sajam je doveo gotovo 3.000 ljudi, koji su posjetili štandove 102 izdavača, pisca i agenta. Posjetitelji su mogli prisustvovati bilo kojem od gotovo stotinu događaja zakazanih tijekom vikenda. Donosimo vam prikaze nekih od laureata s primamljivim receptima. Iće&piće u kategoriji eno-gastročasopisa najbolji je časopis u Hrvatskoj.

U proljetnom broju Veljko Barbieri za vas je pripremio članak o ponutricama ili iznutricama. Još vas mnogo toga čeka, poput 200. godišnjice prve hrvatske kuharice u tradicijskoj kuhinji, portreta vinarije Meneghetti, vinske sorte rizvanac, slovenskog radicchija, škole kuhanja s Marinom Sanguinetti, ususret Zagreb Wine Gourmet Weekendu, kvinoje, biljnih mlijeka, majoneze i kečapa, zašto češnjak ubija vampire, bacile i loše vibracije...

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