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Broj 35 Srpanj 2013.

U ljetnom izdanju časopisa Iće&piće za vas smo pripremili gastronomske čari diplomatskog Bruxellesa. Mnogi će se Hrvati od početka srpnja preseliti da rade u Bruxellesu jer će se radne dozvole mnogo lakše dobivati. To znači da će novi Briselci i stalni posjetioci biti suočeni s pitanjima: Gdje nešto lagano ručati? Ne govorimo o visokoj gastronomiji, o skupim mjestima, slavnim chefovima, nego o svakodnevnoj prehrani. U nedjelju ujutro na trgu Jourdan, a u utorak popodne na trgu Chatelein odlazi se na tržnicu, gdje se jedu kamenice sa štandova i pije šampanjac. Najbolji je pomfrit, ili frittes, u Maison Antoine na Place Jourdan, gdje se nerijetko zaustavlja službeni auto kraljevske obitelji iz kojega vozač ili tjelohranitelj ide po škarnicl za nekog unutra…

Odabrati planinsku temu kao što je ova u vrelini ljeta, suprotstaviti pastrve brancinu, naoko je neobična i hrabra odluka. No sigurni smo da dnevne pripeke kvarnerskih i sjevernodalmatinskih otoka tjeraju brojne turista da s čežnjom pogledaju plavkastu magičnu masu Velebita. No inercija ili, još bolje, nedostatak pravih informacija nedovoljno ih potiču da posjete taj, tek malo kilometara udaljen, planinski raj. Siromaštvo ovoga hrvatskog kraja je iza nas, pa se nekadašnja blagdanska jela danas nalaze na dnevnim jelovnicima gostionica. O raritetnim jelima iz povijesti, o novim jelima na staroj tradiciji više ćete saznati uz pomoć nezaobilaznoga gastronomskog suputnika Željka Zubovića, koji je (treba li reći?) i ličkih korijena. A Marko Sokolić iz gospićkoga restorana Maki izrekao je najbolji (i prigodan) slogan: Umjesto dobro prošli kroz Liku, dobro došli u Liku!

Njegov je utjecaj golem. On je posijao sjeme kulinarske revolucije, procjenjuje David Chang, poznati njujorški chef restoranskoga carstva Momofuku, a njegov kolega Wylie Dufresne dodaje: Njega su kopirali svi chefovi u svijetu. Svi smo preuzeli nešto iz njegove knjige... Istovremeno, svi vodeći chefovi sa sjevera Španjolske navode Michela Brasa, jer o tom je jedinstvenom francuskom chefu riječ, kao nadahnuće za nove smjerove baskijske kuhinje. I ne samo oni. Taj Buddha (neki ga nazivaju kumom ili čak papom) kulinarskoga svijeta utro je put danas vladajućem pokretu prirodne kuhinje, skupini chefova koju sačinjavaju René Redzepi, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Massimo Bottura, Alex Atala..., i svi će oni odmah priznati da je, uz Ferrana Adriju, na njih najsnažnije utjecao baš Bras.

Imamo i prigodne EU teme: analiza koliko (ne)spretnoulazimo s hrvatskom hranom u EU te što se od naših jela i običaja protivi EU-direktivi. Hrvatsku javnost muče pitanja mogu li primjerice proizvođači prošeka u Hrvatskoj nakon 1. srpnja stavljati na tržište proizvod pod nazivom prošek te mogu li hrvatski proizvođači vina sorte teran i nadalje proizvoditi vina i označavati ih tim nazivom. Tekstovi koje smo vam pripremili, iz pera stručnjaka za autorska prava i poduzetnika, reći će vam nešto više o tome što su oni sami napravili i što se moglo napraviti.

I ove godine donosimo vam pregled najboljih restorana svijeta po The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013. I još mnogo raznovrsnih tema poput dossiera i jela sa smokvom, tko to kuha u Ministarstvu vanjskih poslova, tradicijske kuhinje i filane paprike, izraelske kuhinje, portreta vinarije Bartolović, vinske sorte teran, slovenske vinarije Kabaj, škole kuhanja paste i pesta s Marinom Sanguinetti, slastica svijeta by Tea, boba i slanutka, začina, sjemenka...

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