Iće i piće

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Broj 37 Prosinac 2013.

U blagdanskom izdanju časopisa Iće&piće popričali smo s kuharskom TV-zvijezdom Hestonom Blumenthalom – vlasnikom restorana The Fat Duck i Dinner By Heston Blumethal. Zahvaljujući suradnji sa znanstvenicima, stvorio je posve osebujnu kuhinju i filozofiju, kulinarski svjetonazor koji ga je učinio svjetskom zvijezdom. Njegov restoran Fat Duck danas nema nimalo manje čara od 2005, kad je bio proglašen najboljim u svijetu. Taj 47-godišnjak iz skladne obitelji s troje djece uživa poseban status među stručnjacima te je, zbog iznimno popularnih kulinarskih televizijskih serijala, obljubljen među širokom publikom, koja možda i ne poznaje njegove restorane.

London je jednostavno pojam gurmanske destinacije, i to posebno zbog raznovrsnosti izbora restorana, bilo da je riječ o vrsti hrane ili o luksuzu koji ti lokali pružaju. Danas, osim u Michelinovim zvjezdicama ovjenčanim institucijama (2 x 3***, 9 x 2** i mnoštva *), možete sjajno jesti i u mnogim drugim restoranima kreativne kuhinje i inovativnoga casual dininga širom Londona, a posebno onim u četvrtima Covent Garden, East End i Fitzrovia.

Već godinama govori se da vrijeme Gorskog kotara tek dolazi, no čini se da ono samo prolazi, a uspavana ljepotica mogla bi se pretvoriti u uspavanu staricu. Čini se da uz objektivne poteškoće, poput institucionalnih okvira nepoticajnih za poduzetništvo, Gorane, kako sami priznaju, sputavaju i one subjektivne, a to je nedostatak ambicije, hrabrosti i inicijative. Ipak, u višednevnom obilasku goranskih bespuća, uspjeli smo pronaći iznimke koje su se usudile napraviti kreativni iskorak više…

Ovo je stvarna priča o jelima od izvornih namirnica Istre. Lokalno dobavljenih iz neposredne blizine. Zapravo, na zgražanje nekih – ustrijeljenih tu, pokraj kuće. Sve nezgodne detalje dobave zaboravljate s okusom prvog jela. Proveli smo jesenje jutro s Morganovima pod punom opremom u lovu na fazane i zečeve u gustišima oko Bracanije i Brtonigle. Pratili smo ih u paralelnom hodu troje lovaca i njihovih pasa, koji spretno i uvježbano zaokružuju teren na kojem je hajka.

Donosimo još mnogo raznovrsnih tema poput tradicijske kuhinje i francuske salate, portreta vinarski bliskog dvojca Poletti & Radovan, popijene Cossettove Malvazije rustike, razgovora na starogradišćanskom s vinarom Matom Klikovitsem, vinske sorte škrlet, slovenskoga seoskog turizma Majerija, škole kuhanja s Marinom Sanguinetti, slastica svijeta by Tea, đumbira, začina u čaju, digitalne hrane, filma Zapravo ljubav, Milanine dvojbe da li je moguće smršavjeti prije i poslije Adventa, taverne Pergola...

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